Riding the Wave: Surfing, Buddhism and Paul Cezanne

Learning to surf in Fuerteventura, November 2025

“I think we can relate to impermanence very viscerally. You don’t need much contemplative practice to start to notice how everything that we feel and think and experience, perceive and so on, is changing, is in motion. And the apparatus that we use to notice impermanence is also in motion, is also impermanent. And that everything we conceive of in our relationship to our insight of impermanence is also impermanent, is also changing.” Michael Stone, I Had to Stop Reading, Best of Awake in the World, Podcast, 4th January, 2025.

I recently took an art focused sabbatical in Fuerteventura and while I was there decided I’d take some surfing lessons. I’ve always liked the idea of surfing and whilst I am a pretty confident ocean swimmer and body surfing is one of my favourite things to do, I’ve never attempted using a board. I figured it wouldn’t take me too long to get the hang of it; I’ve got good balance, decent reflexes, and can endure being in the surf for long periods. When I booked the lessons, the staff at the surf school reassured me that I’d be up on the board and riding small waves after 2-3 lessons. But you know what? I was ABSOLUTELY rubbish! I had an inkling after the second lesson that this wasn’t for me but I really don’t like to fail so I insisted on attending all seven lessons. I fell A LOT and because we learnt in shallow water, this meant most of my falls were onto hard sand. Over the course of the week I incurred two very bruised toes, the same number of fingers, what felt like a dislocated collarbone (it wasn’t) and on the last day, a sprained ankle.

You see, the thing about surfing is that everything is moving all the time: the sea, the wind, the board, the surfer… and on top of this every wave is different and the conditions for surfing are also constantly changing. So whilst everything works together to create ‘surf’, the configuration of all the different elements alters in each and every moment. This makes it such a difficult sport (for me, at least). All week, the instructors were encouraging me to “stay relaxed”, “to look up and towards the cliffs above the beach”, “to stand up more quickly…but not too quickly” and although I understood the instructions conceptually, sadly (and frustratingly), my body simply refused to comply. I think my longest surf – and I use this term very loosely! – was about 10 seconds. And even then it felt like a happy accident rather than anything resembling progress.

Despite my failings on the surfboard, the experience DID get me thinking about the relationship of movement to groundedness and how nothing is entirely stable, not even the cliffs that I was trying to focus on for balance. Like everything else they too are subject to time, just much slower and not as evident to our naked eyes. It’s something I reflect on a lot in my Sangha meditation group; the knowledge that ALL matter is moving and changing at different speeds and ALL THE TIME!!! Going deeper still, and keeping in mind the Zen Buddhist teacher Michael Stone quote at the beginning of this blog, we see how changeable even our perception is; that what and how we see (or are seen) is dependent on when and where we are positioned at any given moment. So….. basically we live in a world where everything is interdependent but the number of perspectives we have on everything is infinite and infinitely variable. It is dizzying. No wonder we crave stability and security so much (often in the form of possessions and relationships) and why we lean towards facts and statistics …anything to provide us with a sense we are ‘on solid ground’, ‘have a grip on things’, ‘feel settled’ and can ‘see clearly’.

It feels to me that Paul Cézanne, my favourite artist of all time, had a deep and profound understanding of this tension between the need for stability and the reality of impermanence. His paintings reveal to us, whether it be in the form of a bowl of apples, a portrait of his wife or a view of a mountain, a world that is forming before our eyes. The still life, portrait and landscape motifs that he attended to time and time again, appear to be on their way to becoming objects (an ear, a tree, a tablecloth) but the colours, shapes and lines never fully arrive at that definitive outline or a horizon that would to subject them to gravity and set them apart or fix them in space and time.

Paul Cézanne, Madame Cézanne, oil on canvas, 116.5 x 89.5cm, 1888-90

Take for example his portrait of Madame Cézanne from 1888-9. First and foremost it appears that the whole room is tipping to the bottom right and that if it wasn’t for the right-angled frame, or in the top left, the vertical edge of what appears to be a fireplace, the room would collapse and the artist’s wife would slip off her chair. Whilst the direction of light from the right permits us a certain amount of certainty, it is juxtaposed with many other spatial incongruities that defy conventional perspective and gravity. The edging on the wall does not agree with the pitch of the fireplace and frame above it, the curtain sits both in front and behind Madame Cezanne and whilst we understand that she is seated by the inclusion of the back of the chair, her dress is depicted in one plane and she does not appear weighted down into a seated position. A sense of shallow space is created via the use of warm and cool tones but even these refuse to fit into any coherent pattern with that golden window in the top left leaping to the foreground.

So many passages of the painting are in the process of being defined but refuse to do so…left hand becomes dress, dress becomes chair, curtain becomes both still life (bottom right) and landscape (top right). The expression and characteristics on one side of the face become a different expression and has different characteristics on the other side, even to the point of losing an ear. The curtain speaks to us of weight and mass and yet also willingly drifts off into a faraway landscape at the top edge; it is one thing but also another, distinct and at the same time inseparable from the world in which it belongs and from which it was made. This is a painting that is both illusory and real in equal measure, dreamlike and solid.

The work reminds me of something David Whyte wrote in his book Close Consolations: The Solace, Nourishment and Underlying Meaning of Everyday Words:

Our human essence lies not in arrival, but in being almost there: we are creatures who are on their way, our journey a series of impending anticipated arrivals”

I think this is why Cézanne’s paintings always feel fresh to me, why I never tire of them and return to them time and time again. His understanding of impermanence, inter-being and perception and his ability to render that vision in paint (just before it collapses into the next moment or perspective) nourishes my intellect, sparks my curiosity and inspires my own art practice. Paradoxically, in a world that is ever changing, Cézanne remains my constant companion.

“Embracing the Inevitable: Exploring the Concept of Memento Mori in the Context of Life and Death”

Memento Mori; Remember You Must Die

Reflections on my Mother’s Passing, Doha Airport,  5th May 2024

I have just returned from my second trip to Australia in 3 months..a record for me in my 22 years living in the UK. Sadly the most recent trip coincided with my mum’s death. Three weeks ago I received a call from my sister to say mum’s kidneys were operating at 5% and it was unlikely she would live for much longer. I was on the plane almost immediately but despite my best efforts to  get back in time, she passed whilst I was in transit.

I arrived in Melbourne very late  and so it was not until the following day that my two sister’s and I went to mum’s house to prepare it for the wake and assess things. Upon opening the door and moving through the house, what did I see?

The car keys, sunglasses, a travel card and her gym pass in the bowl on the hallway table.

A neat little pile of paperwork, pens and spectacles on the dining table.

A basket of half finished quilted hexagons next to the armchair in the living room.

Pale View of the Hills by Kazuo Ishiguro, marked at page 83, and a pair of cheap of reading glasses laid on the bed.

A small green ceramic mug with the remaining dregs of a black coffee by the sink.

A red lipstick on the bathroom counter.

Two pairs of trousers and three t shirts in the ironing basket in the  laundry.

An empty bottle of red wine and the weekend newspaper in the recycling pile by the back door

A blue cotton dressing gown hanging on the clothes line, still slightly damp.

This small and poignant series of still lifes /lives touched me deeply and reminded me, yet again of that tenuous, if any, line between life and death. All these objects were still so alive with mum’s day to day life, her personality, her routines and the way she occupied her house. They all assumed she was coming back to them and yet they felt deserted, the dust their function stripped and relegated to no mans land. If mum had known that she wouldn’t be returning would she have washed her mug, ironed and put away her clothes, emptied the recycling into the appropriate bins?

Sadly, these objects were the first things to be cleared away. If I’d thought about it earlier I would have insisted that they be left in their in their place until last or at least photographed them, to savour the last remaining sense of my mother’s physical presence and touch.

Thought for Today

Some of you may have seen a recent post I put out on Facebook and Instagram where I juxtaposed a quote about intestines from Kafka by the Shore by Haruki Murakami with a sculpture I made of the same motif?


I’m so fascinated by the replication and mirroring of forms inside our bodies with those outside in nature and the metaphoric significance of these relationships. It’s something I really only understood after participating in a human dissection workshop and saw inside the human form-; the way cloud formations reflect the striations of fascia along the illiotibial band and spinal column, the mother of pearl luminosity and silkiness of our tendons, the oceanic-like forms of our abdominal viscera, the upside down oak tree of lung, the feathered delicacy of the oblique muscles, the list goes on ad infinitum.
I see and feel reassured by these connections and the understanding that nature and the animal kingdom has an internal equivalent in me and me with it. I am both in awe and take great comfort that we are not separate (from one another or the world around us) but are forever reverberating, resonating and reflecting alongside and in relationship to one another.

Time

Hand Studies (Bridget)

I’ve been spending the past four days taking photos of these mannequin hands, copying Bridget Fiske’s fine gestures from our rehearsal last week. As with the mannequin dance based on Pena Bausch’s choreography, I am ending up with enough photos so create an animation much longer than the work I’m citing. In this process (and the birds and seascape paintings) I attempt to elongate time, stretch and tease it out, dissect it, give it added attention…. I do the same when I am working therapeutically with clients, stretching tissue, opening space for better communication between physiological systems.

Deborah Hay my body the buddhist

A beautiful observation from Hay from a group dance class where there were a couple of accidents with candles being knocked over rand then the subsequent clean up by all the dancers…..

“When I knocked over the candle I thought ”I my god,” but then I thought, ”Oh good. We all get to come together again”

This is perhaps one of the silver linings to what seems a never ending deluge of bad news.

A counter-intuitive approach

Retard: delay or hold back in terms of progress or development. From the French retarder, Latin, retardare from re-‘back’ and tardus-‘slow’.

I was thinking about my new project today, the seascape film, and what it is I am trying to achieve with this work. As with all my practice, there is is an allegiance to the first impression, but in addition, an exploration of non-narrative time. The word retard came to mind and I was struck by this idea of delaying or holding back the tide of progress and development in order to create a qualitatively different space or path.

As part of this, I’ve been practising sitting, doing nothing at all, for 15 minutes a day. The idea is to fully engage with inactivity, to digest and cultivate a sense of, and feeling for, what can be best described as no mans land. What are the qualities of this territory and how are they different to the dimensions of endless consumption, action, movement, opinion, subjectivism and infinite perspectivism we currently impose on the past, present and future? It appears counterintuitive to our current way of thinking but my feeling is that there are great creative forces residing in this space and its about having the skills to recognise them.

So…this is what I’ll be exploring with the seascape film, the open horizon-; no mans land, exemplar par excellence.

The diptych and autostereograms

I’ve been thinking about those Magic Eye images that were so popular in the 90’s and the kind of vision that is required to see the hidden motifs within the patterns. It’s all about diverging one’s vision so that each eye sees separately. Our natural tendency is to allow the brain to converge this double vision into one unified picture. It took me to Cezanne who, interestingly, was painting at the time this optical research was taking place. His paintings seem to exemplify this distinctive vision, of a world seen from two slightly different angles. This is what makes his paintings seem like they are teetering on the edge of an abyss, objects and landscapes and people on the verge of falling, neither flat nor full of volume but both and neither at the same time.
It took me to my own preoccupation with the diptych and how I’m drawn to making images that disrupt the tendency of our eyes to settle in one direction. I like the idea that one can create an image where the cerebral and visual faculties are not subsumed into one another but rather, are in dialogue. Sometimes, the conversation between the two is conflicting, other times more harmonious.

Learning to Paint

Still Life with Spectacles. oil on board 22 x 30cm 2020

At some level it feels like every painting is about learning how to paint (again) Like any profession it’s about developing skills and putting those skills to the test. One feels like a beginner every time one starts a new painting. Cezanne’s Portrait of his Son, is my favourite ever painting. In my eyes it’s perfect. So what a pleasure to discover the means with which I could study it ‘into’ a new work. The relationship between form, volume, colour, representation and abstraction in this modest piece is so tightly knit and yet so beautifully fresh.